JAPÓN Día 1

Octubre 21 - Tokyo Arrival!

Words: Sebastian + Imágenes: Araceli

We landed in Narita around 6 AM after a 14-hour long flight. After a smooth immigration and customs process, we proceeded to organize our transfer to Tokyo. The airport bus limousine is a fantastic way to get around, especially if you’re staying in Ginza. Once the tickets were secured, we proceeded outside to discover the crisp October weather: clear skies and 10 degrees celsius.
A cigarette was in order and after asking a kind elderly employee where we could smoke, we were escorted back into an indoor smoking area. These rooms almost feel like a punishment zone. There was a suitcase outside the room without an owner, a testament to Japan’s integrity and honesty. Araceli instinctively left ours outside the room as well while we smoked. I ended up being the nervous one randomly checking on the luggage, quite ironic, I’m supposed to be the Japan expert/fan.
While waiting for the bus on a bench. Araceli noted the light and the silence, I noted a Japanese couple smoking outside. I guess not everyone follows the rules.
The bus trip from the airport to Tokyo was uneventful, it gave me great pleasure looking at Araceli’s face and darting eyes, taking it all in.

Once at the hotel, we left our luggage and swiftly dove into Tokyo, to walk around Ginza, making time before we could check into our room. We immediately went looking for coffee, not an easy task at 7AM when most places, including coffee shops strangely, open at 10 at best.
Café Paulista happened to be open, and we were seated after a brief wait. The experience was very quaint, with locals and tourists both trying out the spot. Specializing in Brazilian coffees, I was expecting strong Robustas. The Manager’s Choice coffee went beyond all my bitter expectations, we both preferred the much lighter Organic Mild Taste coffee. Our first encounter with Japan's extremely dark roasted coffee, of many more to come.

After that, off we went to Hibiya Park, a tiny corner below the Kokyo Gaien National Garden, and turned to get back into Ginza. Objective: Itoya.
On the way, we stumbled upon the Tokyo International Forum and a huge antique fair. Heaven. We decided to go with the flow and dive right into it. This is the first time we were shocked by the prices of things. Incredible ceramics, lacquerware, kimonos, brushes, and countless other items at incredible prices. We couldn’t and still can’t believe it. Before getting completely overwhelmed by the number of options and people, we managed to buy a Kimono and a Katana Pommel (Kashira). Araceli gently complained that my purchase was too small and that she didn’t want it to be lost with other knick knacks at home. She decided to find a display box for it, to give it its due importance.
Itoya, the most iconic stationery store in Japan, was great as always. Too many options and too many choices after a while. We got into a mini argument with Araceli, she felt she was pushed into the store without much direction or background. Whenever she would see something interesting, I would say “Oh but we can get this somewhere else”. Another day of me being an agua fiesta. We ended up buying some great pens, a rubber round stamp, ink, a notebook, and some paper cards in different weights. All items we will use to make FENN’s personality stronger, an extension of ourselves.
After Itoya, hunger. We decided to backtrack from Ginza to Tsujihan Zeitaku Don. A place I picked up on Mauricio’s Tokyo list. A 15-minute walk and a one-hour queue awaited us. Nevertheless, we decided to stick to it and wait it out. Araceli got worried about the meal once she read that the Don (their one dish and trademark) had tuna (great) plus other not-so-friendly seafood such as geoduck, clams, whelk, and others. I tried to reassure her that it would all be fine and worth the wait. And worth the wait it was. The tiny place had 11/12 seats only, an incredibly efficient operation, and delicious food. The Don itself was made of perfectly cooked rice, toasted sesame seeds, a few pieces of cut shiso leaf, and a mountain of grated fish and seafood mixed with raw cucumber pieces. Served with a side of egg yolk and soy, wasabi, and a plate with 4 slices of sashimi in a dark brown sauce. Once down to 1/3 of your bowl, you can ask for it to be topped with more rice and a seabream dashi that transforms the dish into a heartwarming soup. Heavenly. We promptly left, as the underlying cultural politeness dictates. It’s all common sense in a way: You have been waiting in line for an hour, be considerate with your fellow hungry citizens. Our bellies and souls were full and refueled. 

It was now 4 PM and time to head back to the hotel. By the time we got settled, we were drained and decided to call it a night.