JAPAN Day 10

October 30 - Kyoto Trail / Maria Callas

Words: Sebastian + Images: Araceli

I read that there is a mountain trail that takes you from the North-Eastern temple section of Kyoto to the South-Eastern section. Knowing that trails are among Araceli's favorite things in the world, I opted for that route for our morning adventures.
We started with the Higashiyama Jisho-ji temple. A lesser version of the Golden Pavilion, it is, in our opinion, superior. First, for the lack of crowd and second for the intimate garden. Everything was smaller and tighter in comparison, but all the more impacting. By the end of the tour, we were in a great state of mind.

At the temple's entrance, a small street circles behind it, revealing an uphill trail. What followed could only be described as being transported to another world, another dimension. In the three hours we spent climbing the hill, we crossed paths with very few people: hikers, elderly, treading along diligently. You can hear them coming by the tiny bells they all have attached to their backpacks. Another example of common knowledge. Hikers have bells.
There is a term for this: Shinrin-Yoku . It means, taking a forest bath. It couldn't describe our experience any better. The sun was out, the temperature ideal, and the hike challenging but doable. The whole experience was a fantastic break, almost halfway into our trip. The onigiri leftover from our dinner last night was the perfect snack at the top of the hill.

Out the other side, we emerged at Nanzen-In , a large temple complex with an aqueduct. The Sanmon, or gate, is impressive, one of the largest in Japan. Hunger was real, thankfully Nishinomiya , our lunch spot, was a stone's throw away. Part lunch place, part wine bar, complete with a vinyl setup, the restaurant is cozy and warm, exactly what we needed. They do one thing, croquettes, and they do it well. For lunch, they offer sets, croquettes with salad, croquette burgers, etc. After the long trekking in the hills, it hit every spot. Especially with the stellar homemade cola and ginger ale. The next stop was Kodai-ji Kanaami-Tsuji , a store that specializes in wire netting ware. They make kitchen utensils and specialize in tofu servers and tea strainers. Both having their origins in the cuisine that was served in the neighboring temples. Upon arrival we were greeted by Tsuji San . The current generation and steward of the family business. Jokes about our similar top-knots and tattoos started the conversation. It soon shifted to more serious topics. Mostly about the difference in perception and value between craftsmen and artists. He has discussed that he considered himself and his work as craft, things produced every day for everyday use. There lies the value he mentions. Everyone today talks about art and artists, everyone wants to be an artist. They command more respect, notoriety, and money. But do they really produce something meaningful, valuable, or useful? A question without an answer, at least for this time.
We were now closer to the hotel, just in time for a pause before our dinner commitment.
Dinner tonight is not Kaiseki, but Tempura .
The smallest of the counters we've experienced so far, Yoshikawa restaurant is part of the eponymous Ryokan in Kyoto's city center. We enter through a dedicated door and are greeted by a stern young lady in Kimono and the chef.
An elderly couple is already enjoying their second or third course (we will realize later that we arrived 30 minutes late unwillingly). As we took our seats, I caught the guest mentioning to his wife something about foreigners and their beards (aka, poor grooming). I don't speak much Japanese but I have a sixth sense for context. I smile, we will become good companions by the end of the meal.
Araceli's first tempura omakase goes very well. Lots of vegetables, and delicious, crispy, seafood. There's even sweet potato and fig in the mix, all delicious. Gingko nuts are also part of the feast, bliss. She eyes nervously a lidded bowl making its way to our neighbors. I can see the question in her eyes: Chawanmushi?! It wasn't, it was Miso soup. Sigh of relief.
By now our fellow dining companions have adopted us. Eat this with salt, this with ponzu, very good, they kindly instruct and encourage. As they had started earlier, they got up and left at the end of their meal. As a parting comment, the old man turned to Araceli and said: You look like Maria Callas. What a compliment!
Dessert is served in another room we are told. Please take off your shoes before entering. We are ushered to the Ryokan's hearth, with a large antique kettle hanging from the ceiling. It is the center of activities, with the entrance, service area, reception desk, and service kitchen all close by. We observe the comings and goings and listen to the shuffling of socks on the tatami floor. The team hurries back and forth with trays, disappearing behind the Noren separating the public from the private areas. Or into a corridor where private dining rooms must exist. We were dying to take a peek behind the curtain, to see the guts of the operation, but we knew better and behaved. Dessert was: a lemon sorbet, one peeled grape, sliced ​​Asian pear, and Kyo-banchan, Kyoto Smoked Tea.
By the time we were done, our shoes had magically appeared at the Ryokan's entrance. We were sent off with a deep bow. Another glorious day.