JAPAN Day 14

Nov 3 - Back to Tradition

Words: Sebastian + Images: Araceli

We leave Osaka around midday, jumping on a Shinkansen from the Shin-Osaka station. 15 minutes later, we are back in Kyoto . This time, we would stay closer to the Imperial Palace, at the Ace Hotel . Japan has a uniform 15:00 check-in time. It's not always convenient but it is clear and you can thus plan around it. There's always the possibility to leave your luggage while you wait. Which is exactly what we do. We quickly realize that the Kengo Kuma designed building is part of a larger shopping complex. Great!
A semi-dozen curated restaurants share the space with well-selected retailers. BEAMS of course. This time, as a part craft/souvenir for clothing store. Y. & SONS , at the East Entrance, is a tailor that presents old clothing styles with contemporary high-quality fabrics. I could dress like this every day I say.
Opposite, a sake and beer spot serves appetizing lunch sets and plates. We down rice bowls, fries, and some karaage chicken. Homemade cola and ginger ale complete the order. We spot a kakigori & tea room on our way back to the hotel. We'll be back here for sure. The hotel itself is many folds more western than anything we have experienced so far. The difference is mostly in the noise levels, activity, speed, and lighting (brighter). The room's design is very warm and cozy, with wood almost everywhere. There is a turntable with a selection of vinyls. We discover Eikichi Yazawa.
We hurry back out. There's a lot of unfinished business in Kyoto . We feel more are ease with the city, the neighborhoods more familiar. We feel we're not in everyone's way anymore, or crossing at the wrong place, at the wrong time. We know where to smoke, where not, where there's coffee, and of what kind.
First in the order: knives. A few blocks away there's Shigeharu. One of the few that still produces his own knives. We arrive, the doors and shutters are closed. Online, no opening hours or days, only a phone number. Let's try again tomorrow.
Next up, Kungyokudo , a revered incense maker established in 1594. First as an apothecary for the Nishi Hongan-ji temple across the street. The ground floor is for incense destined for religious ceremonies. The combinations, colors, and applications are all foreign to us. We observe, watch, translate, and try to learn. On the second floor, we find "modern" scents. We look for woody, leathery, aromas. I'm particularly fond of cedar and cypress. The kind attendant shows us all the different woods used in the process. We settled for a few, thanked the team, and left.

Throughout the trip, our eyes for craft began to adapt. We started identifying patterns, recognizing styles, and shapes. This also shaped our likes and dislikes. This all condensed into certain items we kept seeing again and again: lacquerware, Raku pottery, cast iron kettles and boilers, wooden boxes, etc.
Osugi Shoten is an antique store that carries a collection of glassware, porcelain, and lacquerware. Osugi San is very kind, although he denies it when you tell him that. Patient and passionate, he answered all our questions and interrogations. He taught us about different red lacquer colors and finishes. Eras and epochs. He took his time to teach us. We parted ways empty-handed, with the promise to come back the next day and select one item from his collection.
The day of activity got longer than initially planned. By the time we got to the hotel, we had no energy left to think about a dinner option. Room service exists solely for that purpose, for those situations. Sadly, nowadays, it rarely delivers. And it feels more like playing Russian roulette than the comforting experience it should be.
The food is soft, and lacking texture. Sauces are missing, condiments are reduced to the minimum. We say it lacks love. Hot food should be hot, spicy food should be spicy, and crispy food should be crispy. Basics that should never be forgotten. First sad meal, in a non-Japanese establishment. We should have known better.