JAPAN Day 4

October 24 - The unbearable weight of talent

Words: Sebastian + Images: Araceli

We woke up a bit later than planned, the original idea being a visit to what is left of Tsukiji Market . We ended up arriving around 9 AM, after another very bitter, dark coffee not too far off.
The only thing left is the outer market, consisting of a few streets forming a grid. Each street is filled with street vendors, most selling food or kitchen-related items. Some are to be consumed on the spot: sashimi, takoyaki, croquettes, etc. Others show dried goods such as seaweed, pickles, mentaiko, etc. All in all, very touristy, with lines of people waiting for their photo opportunity at the most famous food stalls.

A quick stroll down we went on the Subway, en route to the Fire Fighting Academy! Conveniently, located next to the Mingeikan, we decided to start our journey there. Our Fire Department Cap mission was still on, and although we had little hope of finding it there, we still went, hoping for the best. With all entrances tightly closed, we were forced to ask a kind stranger from within the premises. Is there a shop inside? , displayed Google Translate. He responded both verbally and physically that NO . We left smiling, it was worth a shot. The Fire Museum would be our Plan B.

Next up, the Mingeikan , a highlight for us. Soetsu and Sori Yanagi's thoughts, and stances about the arts and crafts movement resonate with us deeply. Visiting this wonderful folk crafts museum finally is the culmination of many years of admiration. The large house required us to shuffle around in elegant leather slippers (someone rushed out to give me an Extra-large pair once they saw me arrive at the ticket booth). The lower rooms housed an exhibit on European Crafts, the upper rooms are where Yanagi San's collection is on display. The pottery, woodwork, fabrics, and tools were breathtaking. Simple, everyday items, made for daily repeated use. Made with masterful skill and dedication. This is what gives these items beauty. We ended the tour at the museum shop, filled with treasures and collaboration items.

The rest of the afternoon was dedicated to store-hopping.
But first, COFFEE! Be a Good Neighbor Coffee rewarded us with our first pour-over, our sweet spot. The lemon cake slice was annoying. How can everything be this good?
On to Loopwheeler, Playmountain, Papier Labo, Beams, Cibone, Hightide and Claska. All stores we had an eye on. Special mention to Papier Labo . If we were ever to create anything paper-related in Japan, it would be with them.

A quick pit-stop at the hotel was due before our dinner at Sushi Wasabi.
It was a moment I was waiting for since I knew we were coming to Japan. Definitely my favorite Sushi Omakase after Sushi Masato in Bangkok.
The chef is a fantastic host, and although he speaks no English, he now has a translation device that translates his speech into audio. He is all smiles and has a fantastic sense of humor. His food is also no joke with heavy-hitting akami and white fish with liver nigiris. Interestingly, he doesn't follow the traditional sequence, from leaner fish to fattier fish. He prefers to think about the impact of each bite and paces his menu based on that.
Another wondrous dish was ikura, mashed and mixed with white truffle. As soon as the first bite landed in my mouth I thought, this is a genius combination. Thinking about these two items separately I never thought they would or could combine. However once tasted together, it all made sense, it clicked.
When we asked him how he came up with such a brilliant combination, he smiled and spoke into his device. After a brief delay, out came his answer: I have spent my whole life hiding the fact that I'm a genius. Enough said.

Overall, our routes and destinations were planned to be mostly explored on foot, with no more than 20-30 minutes walking distance between each highlight. It gives a fantastic opportunity to explore back alleys, and residential neighborhoods and get glimpses into Japan's daily life. Everything is organized with a great sense of care. The greater and common benefit dictates the infrastructure, safety measures, construction sites, signages, housing, etc. It all works, really really well.