JAPAN Day 18

Nov 7 - Back to Tokyo

Words: Sebastian + Images: Araceli

It has arrived. The time to say goodbye to Kyoto . Our tickets were pre-reserved and so we make our way to the Kyoto Train Station one last time this trip.
We arrive around 15:00 with a specific mission in mind. The whole theme of this trip was to disconnect/reconnect with what is important to us. Araceli decided to only travel with her film camera (we added another one to the collection during this trip), and I took notes of our comings and goings, and thoughts. By now, on our last days in Japan, Araceli had accumulated 8 full rolls. It feels weird to have that many pictures you can't see, laying there, waiting. So much so, that fear started creeping up. Are the films ok? Were they damaged by x-rays on our way to Japan? What if they are damaged on the way back? Should we reveal them here? Will it be enough time? The pressure had been building up, reaching its climax on our way back to Tokyo. The decision was made. We will develop them here. Why risk it?

We check-in at the hotel, and make our way to the nearest camera shop that could do it. Sadly, they would only be able to do it in 4 days... But! Their Tokyo Station branch could do it on the same day. Off we go, back to the station. Panting, we hand over the rolls, waiting for a conclusion. 5 of the 8 could be ready by 20:30 tonight. The other three, all Kodak, would be ready in 4 days. Kodak films, you see, are only processed in Kodak centers, that's how seriously they treat it.
5 it is! 20:30 works perfectly, we can come back, record the negatives, and make our way to our dinner appointment with Ryu San and Chandler . It is the opportunity for last-minute gift shopping.
As we walk in Ginza, Araceli spots a Japanese sandal store. We enter, wary from our last experience, and ask if some of these are for sale. They answer, yes, they are all for sale. And if we like a pair, will we have to wait for four months before they are ready? 4 months? They ask. More like 20 minutes, even less! Incredible. Araceli glows, she has been waiting for this the whole trip. And exactly 20 minutes later, we were out, with a pair of wooden getas.
At 20:30, we are at the store, anxious. Are the negatives okay? Did you see any defects in the process? No, all seems to be in order. The team went above and beyond (like in most places we visited) and prepared a digital version for each roll. Would we like to have access to the link? Absolutely yes.
The taxi ride to our meeting place is spent reviewing all the pictures taken during the trip. It is wonderful to see pictures like this, trying to remember at what moment and where they were taken. If there's any good example of what slowing down can produce, this is one.

Our meeting place is a SevenEleven. Ryu San and Chandler are to meet us there. This is all very mysterious, and late. By 21:00 we are usually making our way to bed. I'm particularly looking forward to this dinner since this will be a long overdue reunion with Chandler, one of my favorite people in the world. A book could probably be written about Chandler as well, it might happen on day.

They arrive and immediately we make our way in a small alley not far from the convenience store. A non-descript door opens and we find ourselves in a fancy soba restaurant. We learn that there are two ways to enjoy soba. In traditional restaurants that only serve sets, such as soba, broth, pickles and sauce. And other restaurants you order small appetizers from a varied menu before asking for the restaurant's soba courses to be sent over. Everything is excellent, of high quality. The shirako, tempura, oysters, and other dishes we devour are all delicious. The soba is also the best we've had this trip. Topped with freshly grated horseradish, it is memorable.
All of this is accompanied by copious amounts of sake, the carafes arriving faster and faster. By the end of the meal, a giant bottle of Ratafia Champennoise arrives at the table. There is no way we are leaving without having a glass each.

And then, the question is asked. Should we get a few more sakes at a bar nearby? Araceli and I look at each other, our first instinct is to say no, we are tired. Chandler says: you'll want to see this place. Sold.
We walk a few meters, turn left into a building's staircase and left again into a door on a half-level. I wish I could describe what we discovered down there in words that would make it understandable. The room was small, very dark, the only light, very low, above the massive central stone that makes the seating area. 12 seats around, one person at the helm. Invitation only, sake tastings. Dear lord, yes, please. What Taca San does in its space is magic. Sakes, glass selection, music, and design, are all incredible. An intimate space where he can share his passion and love for this magical drink. Halfway through our experience, the door opens, and a couple enters and takes a seat immediately on the two empty stools. Taca San approaches, excuse me, do you have a booking? No, a friend said we could just eat. Excuse me, this is an invitation-only bar... And with a few more tries, they reluctantly make their way out. By the end of the tasting, I was convinced. Taca San is a genius.

We get back home late, or early. Grateful.