JAPAN Day 19

Nov 8 - Soft-Shell Antiques

Words: Sebastian + Images: Araceli

The last days are a blur, we don't want to leave. We dedicate our morning to visiting Masa San and his wife at their antique shop, Tankyodo. We were to meet Masa San for the first time, thanks to our good friend Brandon San's introduction.
In a residential, nondescript area, we find their shop, a compilation of wonders. They specialize in antique cabinets and boxes. They also feature many other items that Masa San chooses with the heart. We spend a good amount of time inspecting every corner, always discovering something new. If it's not on display, it's probably in a box tucked somewhere else. We review bowls, lacquerware, and ceramics for Brandon, exchanging messages with Mexico at the same time to confirm quantities, sizes, and shapes. Of course, we also look for things for ourselves. Once everything is expertly wrapped, we start saying our goodbyes. Throughout the trip, we have met incredible people. We admire all of them for their passion, dedication, kindness, and generosity. It's refreshing to see that these characteristics are what matters most, not recognition or personal agenda. Humility is a value we have seen again and again, and we greatly appreciate that. We will try to get closer to that ourselves.

They ask if we have any lunch plans. We don't, we were planning on having something from Lawson's or 7/11, onigiris. Onigiris? Great, there's an Onigiri lunch spot not far from here. I find it on the map, it's only 5 minutes away. Perfect.
The tiny spot is what we could call a neighborhood restaurant. They do lunch sets that consist of a main protein, two onigiris, pickles, and a salad. What else does one need? We take our seats at one of the four tables and wait patiently. There is a constant stream of office workers coming to pick up their sets to go. The food is homey, warm and comforting. And ridiculously affordable.

The afternoon is pretty uneventful. We visit Kimura and Kimoto glassware stores, drooling at everything. The quality and craft are unparalleled, each glass a work of art. Following Ubukeya, a traditional knife shop, for more drooling.
At this point in our trip, we need another suitcase. This will be the second one we buy in Japan. Perfect opportunity to review Muji Atelier's library one last time.

Dinner was organized by Brandon, we were to be a Kappou Muroi by 18:30. On our way there, I tell Araceli, it's a modern Kaiseki... there might be Chawanmushi...
We arrive late, and to our great dismay, everyone else is already seated and waiting for us. Our dining companions are serious wine drinkers, with some great bottles going back and forth. Go San greets us and off we go. What followed was a stunning performance, with incredible produce. We got to try my favorite fish, one I had been expecting to see, ever since we arrived in Japan: Nodoguro, or Blackthroat Seaperch. Expertly charred on the grill, it comes sliced, the skin crispy and the flesh barely cooked. Araceli approves. She approved less of the deep-fried soft-shell turtle, however.
We get back to the hotel full and happy. Tomorrow is our last day.